sewinginshambles

my crazy life

Archive for the tag “finished”

Hoopskirt!

So, I have finally made a hoopskirt that was not a giant hassle to make, and it doesn’t engulf me in its massive girth. I used this pattern  by the Laced Angel . It was absolutely fantastic! Super easy and easy to understand.

Hoopskirt with purple linen petticoat over top. I used black thread on white fabric to make the skirt, so I couldn’t bring myself to show this on the interwebs.

 

What’s it made of?

  • A little over 2 yards of 45 inch wide muslin
  • Black thread (it was the only thing I had at hand, and I justified it by saying no one will ever see the hoop by itself)
  • Drawstring cord
  • Fish tape like this

I feel very accomplished as I started and completed the project in just under six hours time. It’s just big enough to be cumbersome when sitting, yet small enough to be seriously dwarfed by the Holy Batman Hoop I made earlier.

I’m trying to be better about updating more often, as I will be using this to track my progress when I finally start on the Cranach/Saxon gown I’m working on for a college research project. And since I have been honoured enough to be made Head of Registration for Utah’s only Steampunk convention, Salt City Steamfest and as such I will be attending other out of state conventions in order to do advertising, I will be making more steampunk ensembles as well as my more historical clothing, I feel like there should be plenty of sewing to be shared.

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Micro Vests in the Making

Remember my micro shrugs?

Lab coat Micro Shrug

Well, for the Salt City Steamfest, I made a sleeveless rendition for the director of the con, who also happens to be a dear friend of mine.

Reversible micro vest. 1/4 yard of both vintage sari silk and gold taffeta

It was a very huge hit, and I got several people asking whether I do commissions, so I figured I better whip a couple of these up and place them up for sale on my Etsy page. (Which, to my embarrassment, has been pretty much abandoned for several months due to lack of items to sell.)

They’re pretty easy to make and take so little fabric. Plus they’re a joy to make!

Current fabrics for micro vest in the making

It’s also a great way for me to use up scraps from previous projects like the fabrics above. I always buy more than what I think I’ll need just in case I goof up!

 

Quick post!

Just a really quick post since I’m super busy with last minute projects for the steampunk convention happening this week. Salt City Steamfest  this Friday and Saturday in Salt Lake City Utah at the Red Lion Hotel. If you’re in Utah, you should come!
In any case, I’m super busy making last minute alterations and accessories for the convention. Currently I’ve got a ballgown with the blue and brown bustle skirt which is almost done. I just need to finish the bodice, a Scottish-ish steampunk outfit- literally thrown together with already existing items (I’ll post that later after the convention), and the fish corset outfit I finished in May.

I’ve also been working on a special thank you gift for the director of the Steamfest. She’s a dear friend and has put sooo much time and effort into creating a niche for those who love steampunk here in Utah. I will post up fabulous pictures of it later this week.
Sorry for a lack of pictures in this post, but I promise to make up for it with lots of pictures from the convention when I’m not helping with registration and panels and such. I’ll be so busy!

 

Cheers

Bustle Tutorial- Sort of

In a previous post, I showed a picture of the blue and brown bustle dress I’ve been working on. On my Facebook page, I had a couple friends ask how I managed to make it. Now I don’t profess to be an expert by any means, and there are millions of ways to drape a bustle, but this is how I did mine. (Coincidentally, it was easier to write this and make a second bustle than the first, 3o minutes versus about 9 hours of fussing)

So mini tutorial, ready set go!

Fabric, pins, scissors, measuring tape, thread, and of course your victim. Mine happens to be an American girl doll that was near my sewing table.

When I made the brown bustle, I used about 2 yards of 45 inch wide fabric. It is a synthetic taffeta, and since I didn’t want a hem weighing it down, I just singed the edges until they melted a bit. You can line your bustle if you would like, just bag line it or flat line it and finish the edges with bias tape, it’s all up to you really. For the doll’s bustle, I just took the dimensions of the brown bustle and shrunk them down using some questionable math techniques and ended up with a waist band of 2 inches by 12 inches and the bustle part of 14 inches by 20 inches. Disclaimer, I did not finish the edges on this bustle in the pictures, because I’m terribly lazy and this was just a mock-up to show how I made it.

So essentially two rectangles, super fancy I know. Also, forgive the super wrinkly fabric, this was just made from scraps

Mark the center back on the larger rectangle, and make tailor tacks or just mark about every three to five inches (I did about every eight-nine inches on the brown one. Again it’s up to you, depending on how many pleats you want and how deep you want them) I marked the measurements with an orange sharpie just to make sure it was clearly shown. I wouldn’t suggest it on your expensive fashion fabric.

Mark center back and where you want the bustle skirt to start on the waistband, I started mine near the sides, rather than in front.

Pleat the skirt onto the waistband, sew it together then flip the waistband down and slip stitch it together so there are no raw edges showing.

Yes my thread was green, just to make it easier to see what I was stitching to what. Now here’s the draping-ish part. With the first finger and thumb of your left hand, pinch the first mark you made on the skirt closest to the waistband.

Like so

With your first finger and thumb of your right hand, pinch the second mark you made on the skirt and bring together, transferring both pleats to your left hand so your right hand is free to grab the next pleat.

Continue this pattern with all of the markings, bring them all together and pin it while you prepare to stitch them together. Make sure you have each pleat lined up with the others, or you could skip a pleat without intending to while sewing.

I just whip stitched them together, but you could put loops on the inside of the skirt to allow the pleats to be pulled up or down.

Stitch that section to the center back of the waistband or you could attach a hook and eye to allow it to be pulled up or down.

Attach hooks and eyes to the waistband and you’re done!Well, what do you think? Are there any other inventive ways you’ve discovered to make a bustle without complicated instructions that make you want to scream?

 

Cheers!

Steampunk bustle skirt: Finished

image

So I finally finished the bustle skirt I’ve been working on. I don’t have the time or materials to make a *real* bustle but I made a psuedo bustle out of several yards of tulle. The seams are all finished with French seams since this fabric is lighter than the usual taffeta I work with. I used the pattern made by Cation Designs. Pattern and post found here. Though I did add more panels than she did. The hem was handsewn as I didn’t like the look of a machined hem.  (That alone took me neatly six hours.) But I’m quite happy with it. I do need to make a petticoat and a dust ruffle so the train doesn’t get dirty.

ETA: all of this steampunk madness is for the upcoming Salt City Steamfest at the end of July.

Favorite part of sewing

You know what? I just realized my favorite part of sewing is pretty ridiculous but I go out of my way to make sure I do a little bit of it in each project. Facings. Yeah… facings. I hate hemming, and I hate finishing seams, but for some reason, putting a facing on a skirt is the best part of a project… How weird is that…. Yeah….

In any case, I didn’t get much progress done while camping, but I’m still working on it.

Pictures to come later.

 

Em

Steampunk Micro Shrug

So I’ve been doing several commissions for a friend who’s pretty prominent in the steampunk community in Utah. I’ve already made her a steampunk skirt and just recently joined her in a steampunk project called My Darling Dimentia focusing around Victorian medicine and health. It’s in the formative stages right now, but we do have a facebook page as well as a shop page. In any case I’m in charge of making these absolutely adorable micro shrugs for the group.

Lab coat Micro Shrug

It’s made from cotton gabardine and a self-drafted pattern. The collar is lined with buckram to keep it stiff.

 

So I’ll be posting more regularly about the goings on MDD.

Cheers,

Em

Glutton for punishment

So I finished a bright blue underbust corset with an orange fish embroidered on it:

The Original Fish: Mr. Gustav

And I’m thinking of adding more fish to the panels, just for more of an effect. Here’s the corset finished, although the lighting doesn’t really like the orange colour.

I’m thinking of doing the other fish in an art nouveau style, as that’s kind of what the first fish looks like.

These are just a couple sketches of possible fish. I’m thinking of putting them on the very back end panels and one on the opposite panel to the original fish.

Luckily, I’m going camping over Memorial day, which will give me plenty of time to get this finished.

 

Em

Cropped Zouave Shrug

So, remember the pointy boob darts from hell? Well, I decided to stop fighting them and just pres on. And look what I’ve got now:

Bad lighting, as it’s dusk right now, so no natural light…

Stats:

  • 1.5 yards of a floral brocade
  • adapted from an original 1863 girls zouave jacket, sleeves are self-drafted
  • Took about 7 hours, due to fiddling with the toile

Tomorrow I’ll show how I adapted the girls pattern to fit in a mini tutorial of sorts.

 

Em.

 

The light at the end of the tunnel

Okay, so I finished the Hell Dress. For the most part. I’ve still got a bunch of embroidery to do on the wool surcoat, and I think I might take in the sides on the raspberry silk dress as it’s a bit roomier than I anticipated. (And now that I look at it again, the sleeves look rather baggy, I may take them in a bit as well.)  I’ll do a full post on it later, when the embroidery is done for sure.

Em.

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